A silent witness in Karabakh

The Karabakh conflict, which continued for many years between the Republic of Azerbaijan and Armenia, concluded with Azerbaijan's victory following the 44-day war in 2020. At the end of the war, a large part of Karabakh returned to Azerbaijan's control. Following this development, the region entered a reconstruction process and was opened to controlled tourist visits.

I also had the opportunity to join this trip and see firsthand the geography I had been following for years through news, books, and academic studies. For someone familiar with the region's history, this journey was not just a trip, but also a powerful bond established between the past and the present.

Karabakh draws attention not only with its historical aspect but also with its geopolitical location. The region is important as one of the strategic points of the Caucasus due to its proximity to Azerbaijan's interior, Armenia, and Iran. For this reason, Karabakh has been a place of importance not only between the two countries but also in terms of regional security for many years.

Progressing throughout the journey accompanied by Karabakh-specific mughams and the “Karabakh” folk song added a different meaning to the trip. While seeing the cities being rebuilt on one hand, it was impossible not to think about the suffering experienced on the other. The coexistence of the destruction left behind by the war and the life that has begun anew in the same geography made visitors experience different emotions at the same time.

Entry to the region is carried out with special permission. The visit program included Aghdam, Khojaly, Khankendi, Shusha, Lachin, and Zangilan. Since Aghdam, Khojaly, Khankendi, and Shusha were the most damaged residential areas, priority was given to the construction of these places.

Along the road to Aghdam, it was evident that the mine danger had not yet been completely eliminated. Since the Armenians did not provide mine maps, it has not been possible to clear them all. It is known that the Armenians used Aghdam not for living, but for preparation for war. The warning signs seen along the road reminded that the traces of the war had not yet been erased. On the other hand, the large almond trees planted in memory of those who were martyred during the 1992-1993 period and the 2020 war add a special meaning to the region. The vineyards on the Askeran road show that nature can revive despite the traces of war.

The Askeran Bridge, also known as the Allahverdi Bağırov Bridge, is one of the structures that bears witness to the recent history of the region. The bridge, where Turks captured by Armenians were exchanged for gasoline, makes visitors think about the heavy memories of recent history, even if it looks silent today.

The Askeran Fortress between Aghdam and Khojaly was also one of the important stops visited. Built in 1751, the fortress is not only one of the historical structures of Karabakh but also a place that remains in memory due to the large number of martyrs given during the conflict period. In Askeran, new houses allocated by Armenians to mercenaries were noteworthy. These houses are now allocated to army personnel, police, and their families serving in the region. This situation was striking as part of the region's resettlement and normalization process.

Shusha, one of the cultural symbols of Karabakh, was one of the cities that impressed me the most during the visit. Offering a different atmosphere with its natural beauties, historical architecture, and cultural heritage, the city had also been the scene of the most critical stages of the war. Being in Jidir Duzu, in particular, made it difficult to tour without thinking about the developments that changed the course of the war and those who lost their lives for this cause. As impressive as the view is here, the traces left by the past were felt just as deeply.

Lachin, known as the “Switzerland of the Caucasus,” stood out with its lush nature and mountain views. The natural beauty of the region, combined with reconstruction efforts, offered visitors a completely different image of Karabakh.

While going from Zabuh village, which stands out with its natural beauties in Lachin, to Zangilan, we passed through the Lachin Corridor, which is the transit route between Azerbaijan and Armenia, along the side road extending along the Hakari River.

When we reached Zangilan, we proceeded along the Azerbaijan-Iran border, which is separated by the Aras River. The natural border created by the river not only separates the two countries from each other but also reveals the geopolitical importance of Karabakh. Jabrayil, one of the last stops of the journey, still made the heavy destruction left by the war felt as one of the cities that suffered great destruction during the First Karabakh War. Despite this, the ongoing reconstruction efforts constituted one of the most important images that give hope for the future of the region.

The Karabakh trip reminded me of one truth again: Although wars deeply affect not only cities but also people's memories, the rebuilt roads, houses, schools, and social living areas also show that a new page can be opened for the future. Today, Karabakh welcomes its visitors as a geography that carries the traces of the past on one hand and comes to life again on the other. For this reason, touring the region does not just mean seeing new cities; it means witnessing a journey where history, war, and the life that has begun anew are felt at the same time.