Europe's last pagans: The Baltics

It has been five years since I settled in the Baltics. After living in Spain and Italy for work and education, the Baltics are a completely different geography for me. Yes, five years have passed in Latvia, the silent star of the Baltics, but my history with this region goes back much further. Although much has changed since I first set foot here in 2009, Europe's last pagans continue to maintain their traditions among the misty forests and peatlands.  

The Baltics; a region consisting of Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia, located on the coast of the Baltic Sea in Northern Europe, is one of Europe's most unique intersections in terms of culture, geography, architecture, and history. There are several basic theories regarding the origin of the word "Baltic." While it is suggested that it is related to the Germanic word "belt" (strait, narrow sea passage) and refers to the Danish straits (Belts), or that it comes from the Indo-European root "bhel" (white, bright) and describes the clear, shimmering waters of the Baltic Sea, or—a less accepted theory—that it is derived from the names of early Baltic tribes in the region, the most widely accepted view is that the name is derived from the term "Mare Balticum" used in Medieval Latin. This term appears to have been used systematically in written sources for the first time by the German historian Adam von Bremen in the 11th century. Consequently, the name "Baltic" first emerged to describe the sea, and over time, it became a geographical and cultural umbrella identity for Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, which live around this sea; in other words, the countries take their name from the sea, and the sea takes its name from a combination of historical and linguistic interactions. 

Geographically characterized by dense forests, lakes, marshes, and long coastlines, the Baltics possess a rich heritage that blends Pagan and Finno-Ugric roots with German, Scandinavian, and Slavic influences. Having remained under the sovereignty of major powers such as the Teutonic Knights, the Swedish Empire, the Russian Empire, and the Soviet Union throughout history, the Baltic countries carry the traces of this multi-layered past in their architecture, languages, and social structures. Having regained their independence after the Soviet era in the 20th century, these countries are today typical Northern European states that are democratic, digitized, and have established strong ties with the West as members of the European Union and NATO; however, historical and geopolitical relations with Russia still play an important role in the region's socio-political dynamics. 

Let us try to get to know Europe's last pagans a little better today. Baltic Paganism can be defined as the general name for the nature-centered and polytheistic belief systems that existed in the lands of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania in the pre-Christian era, and it is also notable for being one of the last Pagan traditions in Europe to be Christianized. This belief system is based on an animistic worldview where natural elements such as forests, rivers, stones, fire, and celestial bodies are considered sacred, and it is believed that gods and the spirits of ancestors are intertwined with daily life. While figures such as Perkunas (god of thunder) and Dievas (celestial god) stand out in Lithuania; in Latvia, beliefs shaped around Dievs, Mara, and Laima, and in Estonia, more around spirits and nature entities are observed. Despite being forcibly Christianized in the 13th century through the Crusades (also known as the Baltic Crusades or Northern Crusades) and the Teutonic Knights, Baltic Paganism survived for a long time through folk traditions, folklore, songs (especially dainas), and seasonal rituals; today, it continues to be revived as a cultural identity element through modern Neo-Pagan movements such as Romuva in Lithuania and Dievturiba in Latvia. 

Undoubtedly, Latvia is the country that has managed to keep Pagan culture most alive among all the Baltic countries. In addition to its rich cultural and historical heritage, the country also stands out in terms of architecture. So much so that it would not be wrong to call Latvia the "Art Nouveau Capital of Europe," and as our famous historian Mr. İlber Ortaylı emphasized, Latvia's capital

Riga is the most important city, or even the capital, of this style in Europe, with its Art Nouveau architectural structures exceeding 40%. Latvia's Art Nouveau architecture, also known as "Jugendstil," is concentrated especially in the capital Riga and is considered one of the largest and best-preserved Art Nouveau collections in Europe. Developing during Riga's rapid economic growth at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, this architectural style stands out with its curved floral motifs, mythological figures, female faces, geometric ornaments, and rich facade details. Riga Art Nouveau, where German and Scandinavian influences are blended with local Baltic aesthetics, has become symbolized by the dramatic and ornamental structures of architects like Mikhail Eisenstein. These structures are seen not only as an aesthetic movement but also as an architectural expression of Latvia's modernization process, the rise of the urban bourgeoisie, and the search for cultural identity. In addition to the historic center of Riga, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List, there is an Art Nouveau district consisting only of Art Nouveau buildings. Among the lace-like structures on the streets of this district, there is also an Art Nouveau Museum where you can take a real journey through time within the Art Nouveau period. 

Latvia is also a city of festivals. Countless festivals are held all over the country, especially during the Midsummer period. The most famous of these is the Ligo Festival. The festival, known as "Jani" in Latvian, is celebrated every year on June 23 and 24, the summer solstice. Its origins are based on pre-Christian Baltic pagan rituals, and it aims to honor abundance, the sun, fertility, and the cycle of life during this period when nature reaches its peak. People wear crowns made of flowers and oak leaves, light large bonfires, dance while singing traditional "Ligo" songs, and it is considered good luck for the night to last until morning. Caraway Jani cheese and local beer are also indispensable parts of these celebrations. Although it has been associated with St. John the Baptist's Day in the Christian calendar, Ligo still strongly preserves Pagan symbols and is considered one of the most vivid expressions of Latvian national identity, the deep bond established with nature, and folk culture. 

Latvia is a country that surprises its travelers not only with its capital Riga and its surroundings but also with many different cultural, historical, architectural, and natural beauties. One of the most remarkable places among these is Kuldiga, the hidden Medieval city of the Baltics. You can trace the centuries-old stories in the quiet streets of the city, which is home to the Venta Rapid, the widest waterfall in Europe. For example, did you know that during the time of Jacob Kettler, the famous duke of the Duchy of Courland and Semigallia established in Latvia (17th century), this tiny country established colonies in today's Gambia regions of Africa for the trade of ivory, gold, fur, and spices, and in the Tobago islands of the South America-Caribbean for sugar, tobacco, and coffee? Even centuries later, it is still possible to encounter some Latvian names in these regions today. You can experience these interesting collections, from overseas voyages made for exploration purposes at that time to examples of ruthless Inquisition, with animations in the "Living Medieval Museum." 

Latvia is also a country where experiential tour designs stand out within the entire Baltics. In addition to the examples above, it offers many different experiences to its travelers. One of the most interesting of these is located in the Karosta region of the city of Liepaja. The region is home to the Liepaja Prison, one of the most extraordinary and eerie historical structures in Europe. Built by the Russian Empire at the beginning of the 1900s as a military disciplinary prison, the structure became a center of punishment and interrogation for political prisoners, soldiers, and those who opposed the regime; it gained fame for its harsh discipline, isolation, and psychological pressure. The famous prison, which can be visited as a museum today, strikingly reveals the oppression mechanisms of totalitarian regimes with its original cells, interrogation rooms, and courtyards. In addition, thanks to the interactive tours with the "prisoner experience" theme offered to visitors, the dark side of Baltic history can be felt directly and shockingly. It is also possible to stay in the museum. Yes, you heard that right! You can spend the night in real cells between walls where the prisoners' handwriting still remains. As I said, it is possible to discover Latvia with many experiential designs. For example, you can participate in purification rituals in a lush green Pagan village built on the edge of a river. You can wash with medicinal herbs prepared by pagans who still wear the traditional linen clothes of the period, eat at Pagan tables, and get information about the future with Pagan fortune-telling and prophecies. You can walk through the Pokaini Forest, one of the greatest unsolved mysteries of the entire Baltic, and follow the traces of Baltic mythology on the Pagan Path trails of the magical Latvian forests. Or you can enjoy a century-old summer life among the wooden villas of the city of Jurmala, a coastal fairy tale surrounded by golden sands and pine forests stretching along the Baltic Sea.  

The closest Baltic neighbor to Latvia in terms of Pagan culture is Lithuania. Lithuanians are the Pagan society that officially accepted Christianity the latest in Europe. They preserved their beliefs until the end of the 14th century (1387). This date makes Lithuania the last Pagan state in Europe. Gediminas Hill, the old sacred area of Pagan Lithuania, the place where the souls of Lithuanian kings were sent to the sky and the area where Pagan cremation ceremonies were held, Sventaragis Valley, the Sacred Hills Complex of UNESCO heritage Kernave, Medvegalis Hill, the last resistance point of Pagan warriors, Plokstine Sacred Area, which stands out with its old altars in the forest, and the UNESCO heritage Kursiu Nerija, the peak of Pagan nature sanctity with its trilogy of dunes, forests, and sea, are just a few of the places you can discover in Pagan Lithuania. Those who are more interested in Paganism can visit the section in the National Museum where Pagan symbols, sun motifs, and sacrificial objects are exhibited and visit Romuva to observe the modern Pagan movement. If you happen to be there, don't forget to participate in Pagan festivals such as Rasos and Velines. 

Lithuania is the largest country in the Baltics in terms of both surface area and population. The capital Vilnius is a city that stretches from the misty Pagan fires of the Middle Ages to the golden domes of Baroque churches. The city of Trakai, on the other hand, fascinates its travelers with the silent heritage of the Karaim Turks as much as the fairy-tale castle rising in the middle of the lake. In the shadow of wooden houses and kenesas, the most extraordinary Turkish story of Lithuania lives on. 

Pagan Estonia, like its neighbors, is based on a deep belief in nature shaped around forests, marshes, and sacred stones. Trees, springs, and hills are considered to be full of spirits. Respect for ancestors and sky gods such as Taara and Ukko has enabled the Estonian people to see the world as a cyclical and living whole. These beliefs continue to live on even today in folk tales, seasonal festivals, and the respectful relationship established with nature. 

Although Estonia does not stand out with its Pagan heritage as much as its Baltic neighbors Latvia and Lithuania today, it is possible to discover the centers of Pagan Estonia's forest-dwelling, animistic, and shamanic Baltic-Finnic heritage from Toompea Hill to Lahemaa, from Saaremaa to Muhu and Setomaa, but the preserved Medieval structures of the capital Tallinn, in particular, make Estonia a popular travel destination. Tallinn whispers the Pagan forests of the North and the stone heritage of the Hanseatic merchants at the same time behind its Medieval walls. As you walk through its cobblestone streets, you feel that time has slowed down with the Baltic wind. While mentioning the Hanseatic merchants, if you happen to be there, I recommend you try a dinner at Olde Hansa, established in an old Hanseatic house. Extraordinary gourmet experiences such as bear meat are also available in the venue, which offers an authentic Medieval experience in the heart of the old city. Without forgetting, the Baltic countries are a destination waiting to be discovered for gourmet enthusiasts. Let's leave that for another article.